The King’s Arms in Wing, Rutland to close at the end of the year

Landlords are bidding a sad goodbye to a countryside pub as costs continue to spiral - despite serving a record number of customers this year.

When The King’s Arms in Wing was bought by the Goss family - husband and wife David and Gisa and son James - in 2004 they were full of optimism for the future.

Now, 20 years later the final pints will be pulled, aprons hung up and keys handed back as the doors to the pub shut for good on December 22.

James, 51, said: “We can’t support it, no matter how much we throw at it.

“When you take the sentimentality out, it is a simple decision.”

Running a pub was one of the options David was given when he stepped away from a long career in the military - the other was a role as health and safety officer.

James was already an established executive chef at a hotel in Denmark but was burnt out by working hard for little reward, so becoming part of a family business was the obvious choice.

The family visited a number of pubs in Lincolnshire and Rutland and after being impressed by The King’s Arms’ countryside charm the decision was easy.

Working together as a family was without many dramas, other than a few years after opening when Gisa, who died 10 years ago, suffered kidney failure and James donated one of his.

James, who has worked in Michelin-rated restaurants, said: “When we started there was an awful lot of pub grub, including us in that mix, so we had to distinguish our restaurant.

“There is no other reason to come to Wing and there were decent pubs nearby so we needed to stand out.

“We changed the level and chucked out all of the packet mixes.

“Even down to the dressings everything is homemade.”

Quickly, James introduced a smokehouse, which allows him to produce hot and cold smoked meat which can be used throughout the year and put an immediate focus on using suppliers in the area.

He also prides himself on cooking with every part of an animal from the tongue to the legs.

His most popular dishes include grey squirrel and wild rabbit, and game pies - as well as the ‘less adventurous’ ham, eggs and chips.

“When people say a pub is a hub it is true. Businesses like this rely on local farmers so they really are a hub of the community and that is something that has lasted,” said James.

James was introduced to now-wife Kate by his brother, who is married to her best friend.

Kate, who worked in fashion in London and had a background in catering, joined the business as general manager a couple of years later.

She said: “When we got together we said we wouldn’t talk about work upstairs, but that quickly stopped. It is a lifestyle and we work well together.”

Rising costs over the past few years as well as the long-lasting effect of the pandemic have made it an uphill battle.

Coupled with the reality of pouring thousands of pounds into a building which they don’t own and their 21-year lease coming to an end, they saw no other option.

“We can earn better if we were employed by other people than running our own business,” said James.

“We aren’t able to take home what we could.

“In our first year we were able to put tarmac down with the profits, this year we would be lucky to put down a door mat.”

He added: “If we were 10 to 15 years younger, full of beans and stupid we probably would renew the lease as we wouldn’t understand the financial implication.

“It is a cracking thing to do and the past 20 years have been awesome but it’s an uphill struggle for anyone to take on.”

Handing back the lease will give the couple more time with their children, Stan, six, and Charlie, eight, and will allow David, 76, to finally retire and stop dipping into his pension.

The building, which has been a pub since 1648, will be left empty unless new landlords are found.

Have you visited this pub? What did you think?